Helichrysum
Helichrysum italicum
【小簡介】
重要產地｜匈牙利
優選產自匈牙利佩奇市，匈牙利佩奇市(Pecs)位於匈牙利的西南部，是匈牙利最古老的城市之一。佩奇市在多瑙河和德拉瓦河之間，氣候宜人，景色優美，屬大陸性溫帶落葉闊葉林氣候，是永久花生長的樂土。
工人們會選擇在永久花綻放的六月時節採收，確保新鮮的植材能蒸餾出氣味及品質較佳的永久花精油。
植物科別｜菊科蠟菊屬
植物氣味｜氣味強勁馥郁，略帶藥草香甜味，也有像蜂蜜的甜美氣息。由於香氣獨特，在調和時依照喜好少量添加。
萃取部位｜花朵
萃取方式｜蒸餾
【主要功效】
◇主要成分｜倍半萜酮、酯類
主成分包括義大利雙酮(italidiones)、乙酸橙花酯(neryl acetate)，另外還有α-松烯、γ-薑黃烯(γ-curcumene)、γ-桉葉醇(β-selinene)等。
【成分解析】
1. 義大利雙酮(Italidiones)
具抗凝血、抗血腫、抗衰老作用。
具有單萜酮的優點，且不具神經毒性，療癒效果更顯著，能夠化瘀，消除身心的鬱結。可提升淨化血液和促進循環作用，適用於預防血栓、靜脈曲張、褥瘡、瘀青等症狀。
◇藥物動力學
永久花的抗衰老特性：膠原酶和彈性蛋白酶抑制活性。
由研究中發現，永久花的β-雙酮，像是italidiones的成分：4,6,9-三甲基-8-癸烯-3,5-二酮（italidione I）和2,4,6 ,9-四甲基-8-癸烯-3,5-二酮（italidione II）顯示出對於膠原酶和蛋白酶抑制活性的相關性。
長期以來，永久花的精油也用於製備護膚化妝品，包括抗衰老產品。紫外線和紫外線可通過多種因素刺激膠原酶的活性：這會導致基質蛋白降解和皮膚老化。彈性蛋白酶是真皮中的蛋白水解酶，其負責細胞外基質中彈性蛋白的降解。彈性蛋白的喪失在皮膚可見衰老跡象（皺紋、下垂）的形成中有重要作用。
• 用途常用來製造各種化妝品添加。
• 功效具有活血化瘀、抗衰老、促進免疫力、平衡情緒等。
2. 乙酸橙花酯(Neryl acetate)
乙酸橙花酯具有抗自由基，促進肌膚循環，溫和鎮靜作用，可舒緩疼痛和消炎。已知有抗微生物、抗發炎、抗氧化(自由基)、防蟲等功效。
對於長期壓力引起的失眠、焦慮、沮喪也有改善的功效。
【市場應用】
◇｜用途/特色｜
• 能促進皮膚細胞再生與修復
• 具活血化瘀、修復傷口功效
• 促進呼吸系統及免疫作用
• 有平衡、修復及調理情緒之效
1. 肌膚保養｜
功效：促進細胞再生、緊實肌膚、平衡肌膚及活化組織、活血化瘀、修復傷口、消除疤痕、清潔粉刺、保養肌膚。
如：傷口修復膏、除疤霜、粉刺清潔劑、化妝水、精華液、乳液、肌膚調理液、乳霜、眼霜等。
2. 舒壓療癒用品｜
功效：舒緩因疲倦、熬夜或壓力引起的生理代謝失調，平衡神經系統。
用於薰香或蒸氣，有助於促進呼吸系統及免疫系統，緩解痰液過多及胸悶的狀況。另外也可改善因呼吸道引起的睡眠不良，因創傷造成的心理問題等狀況。
如：按摩油、精油噴霧、擴香機。
【商品說明】
◇配方應用/用法｜
• 溶解性：親脂性
• 取配方式
- 以溫室溫度添加，無需另外加熱，避免長時間高溫。
- 添加化妝品於乳化前加入油項溶解，混合後參與乳化。
◇注意事項｜
• 請依個人膚況調整使用比例。
• 本產品為原料，建議稀釋過後使用。
• 使用於臉部前請先做局部肌膚測試。
• 正常劑量使用無安全顧慮。
參考文獻｜
1. The antiaging properties of Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G.Don essential oil: collagenase and elastase inhibition activities.
2. ClaudiaJuliano, et al. Antimicrobial activity and chemical composition of essential oil from Helichrysum microphyllum Cambess.subsp. tyrrhenicum Bacch., Brullo & Giusso collected in South-West Sardinia. Saudi Journal of Biological Sciences.Volume 26, Issue 5, July 2019 , Pages 897-905
3. Ascrizzi, Roberta & Flamini, Guido & Fraternale, Daniele. (2017)..The antiaging properties of Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G.Don essential oil: collagenase and elastase inhibition activities.
4. Maksimovic S.et al. Separation of phytochemicals from Helichrysum italicum: An analysis of different isolation techniques and biological activities of prepared extracts.Phytochemistry 138 (2017) 9-28.
5. Jane Buckle, PhD, RN. Clinical Aromatherapy: Essential Oils in Healthcare (Third Edition. United Kingdom: Churchill Livingstone Elsevier, 2015)
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